BUT FIRST, COFFEE

Even if you don’t drink much coffee, no visit to Portland is complete without a cup of joe. Stumptown is the household name, but one of our friends (and Portland local) persuaded us to try Coava and we were glad we did. Visit the spacious location on SE Grand Ave (also its flagship) for a pastry and a honey latte. Heart Coffee is another one that came highly recommended but I haven’t tried it yet.

WHAT TO EAT

Blue Star Donuts
There’s no need to make a special trek to a specific location because they’re all over Portland, including the airport. The Cointreau Creme Brûlée and the Raspberry Rosemary Buttermilk are my favorites. And yes, it’s far superior to Voodoo Donuts, unless cereal flavors and penis donuts are your thing.

Pine Street Biscuits
They have several locations, but go to the one on Alberta St or Division St for ample seating and a peek into the kitchen. Either way, expect a line. The Reggie Deluxe with Egg is the breakfast sandwich of champions.

Pok Pok
THE Thai place in Portland. I’ve only been to the one on Division St (the original location), but they don’t take reservations for parties of less than 6. The Pok Pok NW location takes reservations for all party sizes, but I hear it’s not the same so the decision is yours. They are known for their fried chicken wings but try the Kai Yaang dish with sticky rice (this was sold out on my last visit and I was so bummed!).

Nong’s Khao Man Gai
Another Thai place, but this one only serves chicken and rice (and chicken hearts. And chicken livers). Some people love it, some people don’t get it, but even at 4pm they manage to have a long line by selling only one dish. Good for a quick lunch or take out.

Le Pigeon
Highly acclaimed French restaurant, which I dined at with some friends on a previous trip. The space is actually quite small, so I don’t recommend it for a large party. The food was tasty but also on the heavy side (as most French food are). We enjoyed the hamburger and grilled pigeon dishes.

The Hairy Lobster
We discovered this place almost by accident, as it was located a few blocks from our hotel in the Pearl District. What a wonderful find! They have amazing desserts and a creative cocktail list. If you want to splurge on a meal, I highly recommend this one.

Salt & Straw
No visit is complete without waiting in line at this ice cream shop known for its famous savory flavors. Unless you’re from San Francisco…then I’d suggest waiting in line back at home.

Oh, and if pubs are your thing, don’t leave Portland without visiting a brewery. We went to Hopworks on our most recent visit, but there are plenty in downtown worth checking out as well.

WHERE TO SHOP

In my opinion, the thing to do in Portland is to grab some coffee, eat, do some tax-free shopping (unless you’re already from another tax-free shopping state then never mind), eat again, admire the lush greenery around you, check out some cute shops, eat, then drink. I’ve laid out some of the top shopping neighborhoods and streets for you below.

Downtown
This area has most of your usual chain stores (J.Crew, GAP) dotted with high end department stores like Nordstrom. But for a unique experience, a visit to Powell’s is a must. The location in downtown claims to be the largest bookstore in the world, housing over a million books. Even Mr. Wonderful, who rarely reads books, spent an hour there.

Division/Clinton neighborhood
This area is hipster/foodie land where you could easily spend half a day. Some of my favorite stores are Adorn (chic clothing boutique with the nicest sales reps) and Little Otsu (cute stationary store with another location in SF).

NW 23^rd (part of the Northwest District)
This street is a nice way to spend a couple of hours in the afternoon. There’s less gourmet places to eat compared to Division/Clinton, but more shops. I like Sloan boutique for its minimalist women’s clothing, Tender Loving Empire for local handmade goods, and The Meadow for local specialty food items (I came home with a set of bitters and fancy simple syrups).

Alberta Arts District
I haven’t had time to thoroughly enjoy this area, although it feels similar to NW 23^rd but with more art galleries and vintage shops. Worth coming if you have the extra time.

THINGS TO DO IN OUTER PORTLAND (AND BEYOND)

Washington Park
Technically still in Portland, but on the outskirts of the city. Take an hour or two out of your day and wander around the large park. Be sure to check out The International Rose Test Garden which is particularly beautiful in the summer.

Forest Park
If you’re itching to do some hiking, Forest Park has miles of trails waiting for you to explore. And if hiking isn’t your thing, you can drive up to Pittock Mansion and admire the pretty view of Portland from its backyard.

Multnomah Falls
This gorgeous waterfall can be seen from the parking lot, but the six mile hike is worth doing. Unfortunately the trails are still closed from the fire in 2017, though the viewing platform has been reopened.

Willamette Valley
Oregon’s wine country, and so affordable compared to Napa. Sokol Blosser is a crowd favorite, though we personally preferred Domaine Drouhin (delicious Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris) and Domaine Serene (about 5 minutes up the road).

Have you been to Portland? If so, please leave some of your personal favorites in the comments below!

Yes, one. Yes, it can be done.

Now I will preface by saying we only have one kid. We also did this when Little V was 18 months old. I didn’t have to bring a breast pump, and we didn’t have to worry about bottles, so I personally found it easier to pack for an almost-toddler than a little baby. Time will tell whether we can pull this off again when V gets older, but hopefully she’ll be able to carry a little backpack of her own next year!

Why bother with carry-on?

We always do carry-on. I hate checking in bags. You waste time checking it in and you waste time waiting for it at baggage claim. There is always a chance your suitcase will get lost and something inside will get damaged. In certain countries they will even rummage through your stuff. No, thank you.

Ok, but you get a carry-on per person. Why try to fit it all in a single suitcase?

Since we decided to bring a stroller and a car seat along on this trip, we wanted to have as little additional baggage as possible. But the primary reason was specific to me. With my ongoing chronic foot pain, I’m unable to carry and lift as many things as I used to, and the less we had, the better it would be for my physical health (and everyone involved).

In addition, we were planning on doing local flights within England, and one particular airline charged extra for carry-ons (backpacks were free). So there was a financial incentive for us as well.

I was up for the challenge. Mr. Wonderful was doubtful. But…we did it! Maybe some of these packing tips will be helpful for you, too.

1. Pack in layers. We were going to Great Britain and knew the weather was going to range from 50-70 °F, so I packed a couple of tank tops, a couple of tees, one long-sleeve turtleneck, one sweater, and a cardigan. For bottoms I included shorts, lightweight black pants and wore jeans on the plane.
2. Pack neutrals. Black goes with…everything. I’m not a fan of white because it’s easy to pick up stains, but light gray is a decent alternative. I also like black and white striped tops, which adds some interest but is also versatile.
3. Ladies…this dress. I discovered it by accident one day, and it has definitely become my favorite travel dress. You can put it in the washer AND dryer, and it can be dressed up with a belt or worn as a casual shift dress with sneakers.
4. Ladies…if you need a pair of dressy shoes, stick with flats. Nothing takes up more useless space than a pair of heels.
5. Guys…these pants. I read about them in a travel blog and bought a pair for Mr. Wonderful. At first he was like, “Why did you buy me $200 pants?!#&*?” and then…he bought another pair. On our trip he wore them to a park, afternoon tea, and a Michelin star restaurant. He dumped water on them, and it rolled off like a dream. They wash and dry wonderfully. Some things are possibly worth the price. Also, they’re made in NYC.
6. Compression sacks and compression cubes. This is part of the secret. If you can get over the fact your kid’s clothes will be wrinkly, I recommend stuffing them into a compression sack. We were able to stuff a week’s worth of V’s clothing into a 5-liter. We divided our own clothing into the cubes (which don’t compress as well as the sack, but also doesn’t make your clothes wrinkle too much, either).
7. Vacuum pack the extra diapers. When we travel, I make sure there are about 8 loose diapers in my backpack. On average V goes through 5-6 diapers a day, so there’s a few extra in case of accidents. We also want to make sure there’s enough to get us through the first couple of days in case we can’t immediately find a store that sells diapers, so Mr. Wonderful came up with the idea of vacuum-packing an extra 20 or so diapers. It shrinks down the size by more than half!
8. Bring flat activities and thin paperback books. Entertainment does not have to take up lots of room. The local craft store has great ideas that don’t cost much – sticker books, coloring books, and quick crafts can be found in the dollar bin. I also went to the party store for cheap party favors that work well as disposable toys.
9. Bring along a compact duffel bag. This one folded down quite small and was quite handy for souvenirs and other purchases (which of course resulted in two carry-ons for the flight home).
10. Utilize every nook and cranny. Was there room for anything else? Yes! We managed to fit in both of our flip flops for the beach, swimsuits, swim diapers, my flat-iron, and a crossbody bag for more formal occasions.

In our backpacks we had the following:

Backpack #1: Laptop, iPad, iPhone, chargers, foreign outlet adapters, portable diaper changing pad, diapers, a pack of baby wipes, toiletries, umbrella, water bottle

Backpack #2: Laptop, iPhone, toiletries, a book, an extra change of baby clothes, a bag of small toys, snacks, sippy/straw cups, a thin blanket, water bottle

And for those traveling for more than a week…

Make sure all your clothing is easy to wash and easy to dry. You may know this already, but packing for a month-long trip is the same as packing for a week. If you’re planning on staying at an Airbnb with a washer/dryer (a recommendation if you have kids!), then stick to machine washable clothing. If you’re only staying at hotels and don’t want to pay the exorbitant dry cleaning fees, then pack clothing that you can hand-wash and will air dry in a day. REI, Lululemon, and Athleta often have great options.

Hope this was helpful! Do you have any tips for streamlining your packing?

When Mr. Wonderful first suggested we spend the rest of his paternity leave going to Europe, I thought he was out of his mind. Little V was only 2 months old at the time, and the idea of hauling my sleep-deprived, half-crazed self with a baby in tow just seemed insane. I could barely get through the day by day, and he wanted to travel?!

“Fine,” he said. “You’re no fun.”

Sigh. Apparently giving birth to a baby also turned me into a party-pooping old grouch.

So I relented, though in the weeks and days leading up to the trip I was half-hoping that a minor catastrophe would happen. Just bad enough where Mr. Wonderful would have to admit cancelling the trip would be for the best, but of course not so bad that anybody got permanently hurt. I did end up with a foot injury, and Little V did pick up an ear infection (we went to urgent care two days before the trip), but Mr. Wonderful cheerily carried on with his packing. So off we went. And here are some things I learned:

Hotel vs apartment. With a baby, it seemed like renting an apartment (with an elevator! And a washing machine!) would be a no-brainer. But after staying at three different hotels and three different apartments, we learned that a couple of overnights at a familiar hotel chain is nice when you first land in a new country. After an exhausting flight, all you want to do is check-in and rest. In addition, they have more at stake when it comes to your baby’s safety and will generally provide a safe crib/pack n play for your child to sleep. We rented one apartment from a man who obviously did not have kids of his own, and though he offered to provide a crib, it looked questionable in terms of safety.

After you’ve recovered from jet lag though, renting a larger apartment or staying at a resort phu quoc is definitely more comfortable. And don’t forget the washing machine. There’s just as much baby laundry to do while traveling as you did at home!

Stay for at least 2 weeks. We read that most babies recover from jet lag in a couple of days, but it took Little V (and therefore us) about five. Mr. Wonderful and I both agreed it definitely would not have been worth it to suffer through jet lag only to pack our bags again and head home. You can visit allworld.com to find things to do in your preferred destination.

Try to stay in one place. Having a child does slow you down. Gone are the times when you can walk ten miles and squeeze in ten tourist sites a day. There’s no such thing as “grabbing a quick lunch.” Thus staying in one place meant we could take our time visiting the local attractions and not feel pressured about doing everything at once. Little V also seemed to fare better when we weren’t rushing from one city to another. If you’re looking for disabled friendly travel destinations, check out Wild Spirit Expeditions website.

Train vs car (keep it short). Though many parents told us that renting a car was the way to go, I’m not entirely convinced that’s true. We did both, and there are pros and cons to each. When Little V got fussy on Costa Verde train tours, at least we could take her out, bounce her, and distract her with outdoor scenery. Also, both parents could take shifts. With a car, we could stop whenever we wanted to (and it was nice not to drag our luggage from A to B), but after a long ride Little V would become inconsolable. Mr. Wonderful ended up speeding to our next destination, while I resorted to entertaining our seven-month old with my iPhone. Regardless of your mode of travel, knowing about car accident lawyers can be essential in case of any unforeseen incidents on the road. Contact a Rockford personal injury lawyer if you get involved in a vehicular accident caused by a negligent or reckless driver.

Injured in a car crash in Southfield, MI? The car accident lawyers from Mike Morse Injury Law Firm can help. You may also consider hiring this Southfield car injury lawyer who can provide expert legal assistance. In the end, Mr. Wonderful and I agreed that our car rides should be limited to a total of 3-4 hours a day. If you’re going camping, check out these off road camping trailers.

It’s not so bad after all. If you’re feeling apprehensive about traveling abroad with a baby, don’t! In fact, with your expectations in check, it can be a wonderful experience. I ended up being glad we went. With Little V, strangers would stop to coo and talk to us. We had many more conversations with people than we did when it had been just the two of us. It was a very different type of traveling than when Mr. Wonderful and I traveled around the world, but an enriching one nonetheless. Most importantly, we made new memories together as a family (which is the point of paternity leave, anyway!).

Have you traveled with a baby before? Would you do it again? What were some of the things you learned?

I have a soft spot for Disneyland. It’s one of the few places where I feel everyone is just a little happier, a little kinder, and a little more relaxed. It’s like Christmas. You just have to pay for it.

Mr. Wonderful and I get our fix about once every 2-3 years, and with the Diamond Anniversary celebration that just started a few weeks ago (translation: brand new World of Color water show, brand new fireworks show and brand new electrical parade) we just had to go.

Many Disneyland fans will argue that trying to do Disneyland Park and California Adventure in one day is a bad idea – you feel rushed, you don’t enjoy the magic, and it’s hard to soak up the atmosphere of each “land” if you’re constantly walking from one thing to another. I get that. But I’m the type of person where if I’m visiting Paris for the first time, and I only get one day, I’m going to cram the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Louis Vuitton store and my Laduree macaroons in one day. I’m not going to sit at a café all afternoon even though, yes, that would be the local Parisian experience. In my opinion, one should check out the highlights on the first visit, and then soak up the atmosphere another time. But if that’s not you, then both Disney Tourist Blog and DIS Unplugged have a good 1-day plan for just Disneyland Park.

Otherwise, this would be my suggested 1 Day itinerary (including my favorite rides and eats!) for both parks (note this plan would not be ideal for pregnant women and young children as it does involve a lot of roller coasters):

The Week Before

– Buy your 1-Day Park Hopper ticket (currently $155) online so you can avoid an extra line the day of.

– If you are planning on a sit-down dinner during your visit, reservations need to be made in advance or you could be waiting for at least an hour (but read through my itinerary before deciding). I would suggest making a reservation sometime between 6-7pm. You want to be done eating by 8:30pm at the latest to get a spot for the parade. Popular places are Plaza Inn (fried chicken), Cafe Orleans (Monte Cristo sandwich), and Big Thunder Ranch Barbeque (all-you-can-eat barbeque!).

Yes, there’s actually good food at Disneyland!

The Day Before

– If this is your first time visiting the parks, spend a few minutes to get familiar with the maps of Disneyland Park and California Adventure. Specifically, take note of where the Radiator Springs Racers and Toy Story Midway Mania rides are located in California Adventure as those will be your first stops of the morning.

– Pack a granola bar, a water bottle, and sunscreen in your purse. You’ll need them. And don’t forget a light jacket. It’s generally hot during the day but cools down significantly at night, even in the summer.

– Plan to wear good sneakers, even if they clash with your outfit. Your feet will be hurting by the end of the day.

– Get a lot of sleep. Or at least, try to. You will need all the energy you have for the big day! It’s almost as exhausting as getting married.

The Day Of

Check the Disney calendar to see when the park will open on the day of your visit. My itinerary assumes the park opens at 8am and closes at midnight.

7:30am – Estimated time of arrival. Allow 15 minutes to park your car and haul yourself to the entrance. There are trams available from the parking lot to the Disneyland entrance, but if the line looks long and the trams are not yet fully operational, just walk. It’s only 10 minutes.

7:45am – If you forgot to buy your ticket online, get it now. Otherwise, walk over to the mass of people waiting for California Adventure to officially open.

8:00am – PARK OPENS! Walk as fast as you can to Radiator Springs Racers. Everyone else will be trying to do the same thing, so don’t step on any little kids. Get in the “Single Rider Line” which will cut your wait in half. You won’t get to ride with your significant other, but you’ll also save nearly an hour (or more) of your life.

Alternative: If you really must ride with your loved one, or you’re in a large group, then pick up a FASTPASS instead. The FASTPASS for RSR is currently located near It’s Tough To Be a Bug! in Bug’s Land. Don’t know what a FASTPASS is? Click here.

8:30am – After you ride (or after you get your FASTPASS), walk quickly to Toy Story Midway Mania. Do not stop. With luck, the wait will be under half an hour.

Tip: Send someone from your group to get a California Screamin’ FASTPASS for everyone while the rest of you wait in line at Toy Story. Remember you get one FASTPASS for each park ticket, so hand the runner your ticket before they leave. If you already did the FASTPASS for RSR, then you may not be able to do this.

9:15am – Now you can relax a little. While you wait for your time slot at California Screamin’, try the swinging gondola on Mickey’s Fun Wheel or Goofy’s Sky School.

11am – Corn Dog Castle opens. This place will change your mind about those nasty versions you had as a kid. They also have a hot link version!

11:10am – Walk through Grizzly Peak and pick up FASTPASS tickets for the 10:15pm World of Color Show. If the tickets they are dispensing are not yet for the last show, ask a cast member if they can help you get tickets for that showing.

11:20am – At this point, you can decide if you want to go on the gentle Soarin’ ride at Condor Flats or the stomach dropping Tower of Terror in Hollywood Land. Neither of them are my favorites, but Tower of Terror would be my pick of the two.

12pm – If you have time, get a quick bite at Cozy Cone Motel back in Cars Land. My favorites are Red’s Apple Freeze and dill pickle flavored popcorn. The Chili Cone Queso is a close third.

12:20pm – Line up for the Aladdin show in Hollywood Land. The first show normally starts at 12:40pm (check the schedule to be sure) and they won’t let you in once it starts.

1:30pm – If you didn’t go to Cozy Cone already, get Red’s Apple Freeze. Seriously. Then stop by the entrance of Carthay Circle Restaurant on Buena Vista Street to check out one of the smallest Hidden Mickeys in the park (if you can’t find it, ask a cast member for help).

1:45pm – Head to Disneyland Park for the remainder of the afternoon.

2pm – Go down Main Street, and make a right at Tomorrowland. Wait in line for Star Tours while someone in your group gets a FASTPASS for everybody at Space Mountain. Don’t forget to spot this Hidden Mickey while you’re in line!

3pm – If the line is less than 30 minutes, jump on Astro Blasters. Otherwise, head to Matterhorn Bobsleds. If the wait for Matterhorn is more than 30 minutes, do Single Rider.

3:30pm – Cross the park to Adventureland. If you’re able to get a FASTPASS for Indiana Jones, do it now while everyone else waits in line for the delectable Dole Whip float at the Tiki Juice Bar.

4pm – If you like water rides, now’s a good time for Splash Mountain in Critter Country before the sun sets and it gets cold. If you weren’t able to get a FASTPASS for Indiana Jones earlier, get it after this ride (make sure your time slot is before 8:30pm or you will miss the parade!).

5pm – Meander over to Big Thunder Mountain Railroad in Frontierland.

6pm – Now is the time to relax (sort of). Make sure you hit your FASTPASS rides for Space Mountain and Indiana Jones. Take a stroll through Fantasyland and Mickey’s Toontown. Eat a churro. Or a turkey leg. If you are keen on a sit-down dinner and didn’t make reservations, you’ll want to get in line now.

Personally, I would suggest going on Haunted Mansion and then Pirates of Caribbean in New Orleans Square. Both are highly popular.

8:30PM – Find a spot for the 8:50pm parade. If you’re running late, there is usually a nook facing the castle, near Astro Orbiter in Tomorrowland, that is a decent spot to view the parade.

9:15PM – The parade ends and the crowd will be congested trying to find a viewing place for the 9:30pm fireworks. You can either stay where you are for an okay view, or you can follow the mob to stand in the middle of Main Street, facing the castle. About 80% of the fireworks show will be on or right above the castle, with 20% being along Main Street, so make sure you can see the castle clearly.

9:45PM – Immediately after the fireworks, head back to California Adventure for the 10:15PM World of Color show. While your space is reserved, seating is first-come, first-serve, so you do want to get there early. If you don’t want to get wet, stand farther in the back.

10:45PM – If you’re still up for it, you have another hour back in Disneyland Park (California Adventure is already closed by this time)! Hit the rides you missed, or go on a second whirl at Space Mountain.

Midnight – Most stores on Main Street stay open until half hour after closing, so you can save your souvenir shopping for the very end or have one last ice cream at Gibson Girl Ice Cream Parlor. You’ll also save yourself the headache of being stuck in departing traffic. Take one more look at the magical castle and wave goodbye to the statue of Walt Disney and Mickey.

Note: This is the ideal schedule that I more or less follow whenever I go to Disneyland. However, rides do break down, and on rare occasions, the park may reach capacity and not allow re-entry. If that happens, just do the next thing on my list, or have another corn dog. After all, you’re in the happiest place on earth.

Have you been to Disneyland? What would you add or take out from my itinerary?

Even when I first started my round-the-world trip, I was looking forward towards the end of my travels, when I would pay a visit to Amsterdam. As someone who appreciates art and fashion, I was long attracted to one of Europe’s most design-oriented cities. In addition, it has the highest museum density in the world! From the Anne Frank House and Rijksmuseum to the Museum of Bags & Purses, I could have spent a month just hitting up museums alone.

If you love flowers, April through mid-May is the best time to visit Amsterdam as you will catch the renowned tulips in bloom. And don’t forget to be there on a Wednesday to catch a free lunchtime show at Concertgebouw concert hall, which is ranked as having one of the best acoustics in the world.

Below would be my suggested timeline for someone who wants to see the highlights of Amsterdam and its countryside, fit in a few museums and unique shopping, as well as dine at a Michelin star restaurant. This particular itinerary assumes you are visiting Monday-Wednesday during the Spring…if you are not, then adjust accordingly.

Day 1 – Highlights

10am

Start with Sandeman’s New Amsterdam tour. It’s free. And yes, it’s actually a pretty good tour. Despite what its website claims, there is no need to spend three Euros to reserve online – just show up 10 minutes before the tour starts (maybe 15 if you’re going during high season) and you’ll be accounted for. The tour is three hours long and you will get a great overview of Amsterdam’s highlights. Don’t forget to wear comfortable walking shoes, and bring some cash to tip the tour guide in the end.

1pm

The tour will end at the Anne Frank house. Walk 7 minutes to the restaurant Pancakes! Amsterdam to taste a local specialty. Dutch pancakes are closer to a thick crepe rather than the doughy, American breakfast food and much tastier in my opinion. On our recent visit, Mr. Wonderful opted for the delicious smoked salmon version.

3pm

Wander the streets of the Jordaan district. If you want a unique gift or love looking for antiques, you will find it here. On certain days there are also markets that sell everything from gourmet food to secondhand clothing. I personally loved checking out the home design shops, with Droog and Friday Next being some of my favorites.

5pm

Now is the time to get in line for the Anne Frank house. The wait is usually shorter when it is 1-2 hours before closing time.

7pm

Have a casual dinner at Winkel 43. They serve local brews and are known for their famous Dutch apple “pie,” which is a bit different from the American version but equally delicious.

9pm

End your first day with a stroll by the canals at night. Amsterdam is particularly pretty in the evening with all its twinkling lights, and as long as you’re street smart, it’s quite safe. Or if you’re tired from walking all day, you can catch a candlelight canal cruise instead.

Day 2 – Windmills, Flowers and Shopping

Take a day trip to see the picturesque windmills in Zaanse Schans (year-round) and the blooming tulips at Keukenhof Gardens (April through mid-May). Since they are in opposite directions, it is easiest to book a tour company on Viator that will take you to both, or you can rent a car.

If you are not visiting during the Spring, or only care to visit the windmills, you can easily travel to Zaanse Schans in 17 minutes via the train at Amsterdam Central Station. Just hop off the Koog-Zaandijk station, and walk 15 minutes to where the windmills are located. There are signs to point the way, but if you do get lost, the locals speak perfect English.

Once you arrive, it is worth taking the time to visit the inside of one of the windmills. Each one makes its own product. We visited the peanut grinding windmill, but walked by others that make paint or cut planks of wood. Also nearby is a cheese factory. Sampling the cheeses make for a nice snack!

A few hours in Zaanse Schans is usually enough, so after a casual lunch in the village, you can head back to the city for some serious shopping! Here are some of my favorite shopping areas and stores:

Kalverstraat and Heiligeweg – These two pedestrian-friendly streets intersect with one another and have go-to European labels (Scotch & Soda, Monki, and & other Stories) mixed with American favorites such as Levi’s and The Body Shop.

Pieter Cornelisv – Similar to LA’s Rodeo Drive, this street has all the high-end designers such as Chanel, Gucci and Louis Vuitton.

de Bijenkorf (The Beehive) – I’m not going to lie, I visited this department store more than once during my visit and made most of my purchases here. If you are looking for a one-stop shop that contains everything from cosmetics to designer goods, this is the place. In fact, the Louis Vuitton shop inside de Bijenkorf carried more inventory than the stand-alone branch on Pieter Cornelisv.

If you do pay a visit to De Bijenkorf, get an ice cream cone at Banketbakkerij Van der Linde, which is just a 4-minute walk away. There’s always a line, and there’s only one flavor, but it’s worth the wait. The texture of the ice cream is unlike any I have had. Soft and creamy, it tastes more like whipped cream. Or heavenly air.

Day 3 – Museums, Music and a Michelin-starred meal

9:30am

If you are a fan of Van Gogh, then the Van Gogh Museum is a must. It takes about 2 hours to fully enjoy the museum, but if you just want to take a quick walk and pause at his more famous works, then you could probably get it done in an hour. There is a museum café in case you get hungry.

12pm

Start lining up for the lunchtime concert at Concertgebouw, which starts at 12:30pm. Contrary to the name, no one was actually eating their lunch during the 30-minute performance when I visited recently, so have a bite beforehand.

1pm

If you’re in need of a proper lunch, the café at the Rijksmuseum has good food. Afterwards, spend your afternoon wandering through the numerous exhibits offered at the world-renowned museum, making sure to have a glimpse at The Night Watch (Rembrandt) and The Milkmaid (Vermeer). Save time in the end to shop at its wonderful gift shop. Some of the exhibits have limited tickets, so check the website beforehand to see if there is anything you need to reserve in advance.

5pm

Take a walk through the nearby Vondelpark. The park is 120 acres, so don’t expect to see everything! There is a Picasso sculpture and a rose garden, but it is also a great place to relax at one of the park benches and people-watch. With 10 million visitors a year, it’s a popular spot for locals and tourists to hang out.

6:30pm

End your visit to Amsterdam by splurging on a Michelin-starred meal at Lastage. The cuisine is French but inspired by local Dutch flavors, so you will enjoy some of the best food that the Netherlands has to offer. Our recent dining experience took nearly four hours, so let the staff know beforehand if you have a time constraint. Reservations are a must. No dress code, which is good news for those of us traveling out of a suitcase!

Have you been to Amsterdam? Do you think I left anything out that is a must-do? Let me know!

Just a few months ago I was sitting on this ledge in Bagan, Myanmar, catching my breath after scrambling up the steep steps of Buledi temple. I remember thinking how my round-the-world trip with Mr. Wonderful had just begun. There was so much to see. The days and months seemed to stretch out before us.

All too quickly we’re back to what people call “The Real World.”

I hate that phrase. As if traveling for six-plus months was some irresponsible fantasy, and all we did was drink piña coladas on the beach. As if the world we saw doesn’t carry any permanent significance. There were family and friends who thought we were making a grand mistake we would never be able to recover from.

During our trip we met a fellow traveler who shared his story. He told us how he had recently been offered a promotion that potentially could have made him a very wealthy man. He thought he wanted it. After all, he liked his job and his boss. But he ended up not only turning down the promotion, but quitting his job and preparing for a trip around the world.

It didn’t make sense. Make your millions and THEN travel. Right?

It was simple, he said. He wanted to learn more about himself, to find out what really got him excited in life. He figured that traveling for a year, visiting foreign countries, and meeting people from different backgrounds would help him get there.

That’s it, I thought. I was just never able to articulate it before. I had been content enough with my life and my work, going through the routine week after week, assuming one day I’d have kids and maybe a house, retire eventually and call it a life. That was what people expected of me. That was what I expected of me.

But then, Mr. Wonderful and I talked about this traveling thing. Are we doing this? Are we really going to give up our jobs and spend money to do this? The answer was, without a doubt, yes. I knew there was something out there. I couldn’t voice it, but it was calling me to find it.

And I found it a hundred times over.

I found it at the church I attended in Jerusalem, bowing my head in awe that I was in the same city that Jesus had lived, breathed, and died.

I found it while crunching through a deep-fried fish in Bali, slurping up a bowl of pho soup in Hanoi, devouring a raj kachori in India, and eating multiple gastronomic courses at The Ledbury in London.

I found it in the kids running through the Langa township of Cape Town, dragging along their homemade toys made from discarded Coke cans, grinning at us, challenging us to find as much joy in the simple.

People ask how the trip was, how I feel now that I’m back. Though it’s hard to articulate, I think I feel more whole. The experiences I had and the people I met have made my daily life and understanding all the richer. I went to Whole Foods the other day and realized my long-time favorite yogurt is a style called Icelandic “skyr,” and I smiled, knowing I was just eating skyr, in Iceland, a few weeks ago.

But I’m also excited to be home. Excited to find the possibilities of the new me. Not that the new has replaced the old, but simply that I have found more of who I am.

Live, travel, adventure, bless, and don’t be sorry. – Jack Kerouac

It was Mr. Wonderful’s wish to visit the remote area of Raja Ampat in Indonesia for our round-the-world travel. Renowned for its pristine corals and abundant marine life, it’s a dream for many divers to make a trip out there.

Remote, however, always sounds better than it is. Our Indonesian friend booked the entire 5-day trip for us, and for $600 a person ($1000 for divers), it seemed like a good deal. That is, until we were greeted with huts that only had partial walls, ripped mosquito nets, and squat toilets. Taking a “shower” meant scooping water from a garbage can and pouring it on your head while mosquitoes flew about. As one person in our group said, “I don’t think I’ve ever been so uncomfortable in my life.”

Luckily, our discomfort was rewarded with immense beauty. So many beaches claim to have white sand, but no, this was white sand. Powdery and soft, I felt as if I was walking on stretches of baking flour. The waters lapping the shore were swirls of deep blue and rich turquoise. As long as I didn’t think about the hut I had to return to at night, I could understand why previous travelers have deemed Raja Ampat “heaven on earth.”

While Mr. Wonderful went diving, I snorkeled among manta rays, large clams and a plethora of colorful fish. Hundreds of blue tangs swirled by me as I played hide and seek with an angelfish among the coral. It was like visiting an aquarium, except I was no longer just a spectator but an interactive player. Sharks swam shyly by as my friends motioned excitedly towards a few wriggling barracudas. Without a doubt, the snorkeling was even better here than the Great Barrier Reef in Australia.

Yet the highlight was our group’s exclusive climb up the limestone cliffs in Wayag to partake in the glorious view of the islands below. It was a cloudy day, but the landscape was still breathtakingly spectacular. Knowing that not many people have been able to see this natural beauty made it all the more special.

Would I recommend Raja Ampat? Yes. Bill Gates has reportedly made the trip out there three times already (in his private yacht, of course), if that means anything to you. However, for those who are not keen on roughing it, I would recommend splurging on this place (perhaps the only hotel in Raja Ampat with toilets).

If that’s too expensive, I would suggest waiting a few more years until the tourism industry picks up. I imagine that better accommodations will be more readily available in the near future. Just make sure to visit Raja Ampat before everyone else knows about it!

Years ago, a friend invited me to go to Bali with her. Her parents lived there, and she painted visions of tropical beaches, cheap massages and gourmet food for a fraction of the price. But getting to paradise cost more than my college student budget could afford at the time, so I never made it out to Bali. That is, until last week.

I pushed open the door to our resort and was greeted by a mini ant hill in the middle of our room.

“I’ll send someone to clean it up,” the hotel receptionist said cheerfully. Later, the housekeeper came in with a broom and attempted to sweep the ants away, but all it did was disperse them about the room. That night I drifted off to sleep with several ants on my bed, praying that I wouldn’t swallow one in the middle of the night unknowingly.

Welcome to Bali.

The beaches were honestly disappointing. Maybe because we were there during Christmas week, or maybe it was the area we stayed at (Kuta/Seminyak), but there was trash everywhere. The sand was golden but coarse, and I couldn’t walk two steps without someone trying to sell me surf lessons, sunglasses (even though I was wearing a pair) or a lounge chair. After about an hour, Mr. Wonderful had had enough and we sought sanctuary in the nearby Beachwalk Shopping Center instead.

Ridiculously cheap massages though, were a definite reality. They run as low as $5 USD to $9 for a spa experience. Just avoid the services at your hotel, which are quite pricy in comparison and can cost as much as $30 or more.

The best part of our Bali experience was the discovery in how delicious Indonesian food really is. I’m not sure why it hasn’t yet taken the food world by storm, with the wonderful combination of spicy, sweet, savory and a hint of lime in most dishes. If you find yourself in the Kuta area, hire a driver and visit the restaurant Tempo Doeloe/Ikan Bakar Cianjur. Loud, messy and utterly a must-visit local experience, it’s known for its Ikan Gurame Pesmol, a fried fish covered with an addicting sticky-sweet tomato chili sauce. For the health-conscious, grilled fish is available. There is also fried chicken for those that dislike seafood.

More than the beaches, I enjoyed Ubud. Located in Northern Bali, Ubud is touristy but has a smaller town feel and the nearby rice terraces are breathtaking. Bring a hat and lots of water, and allow yourself an hour to walk along the rice paddies. For dinner, enjoy the Indonesian specialty of Babi Guling (suckling pig). And if you’re a Starbucks lover, the location in Ubud is particularly unique with its temple-like awning (and a real temple in the back!).

My advice? If you’re still planning on a Bali vacation and want a nice beach, I heard other travelers recommend the resort area of Nusa Dua. If you’re more into a nightlife and party scene, then you may not mind the Kuta/Seminyak area. Either way, plan for a couple of days in Ubud and don’t forget to visit Tempo Doeloe on your way back to the airport!

What is one vacation destination you did not enjoy and probably will never return?

I have officially stepped foot on all seven continents of the world.

As odd as it may sound, going to Antarctica had been on the top of my bucket list over the last decade. It started with my senior trip in high school, when I went on an Alaskan cruise with a group of friends instead of traveling to traditional teen destinations such as Hawaii or Mexico. For a California girl who hates the cold, I became oddly captivated by the remote, icy wilderness—untainted by people but a sanctuary for animals you would never be able to find anywhere else.

I wasn’t aware that going to Antarctica was a possibility until I was in college, after hearing a friend tell me about all the exotic places his parents would travel to, including Antarctica. I secretly added it to my list of “Things to Do Before I Die” which eventually became “Things to Do Before I Have Kids.”

Traveling to Antarctica isn’t cheap, especially if you actually want to step onto the continent. It’s not a journey that the typical cruise line makes, so Mr. Wonderful and I joined a company called Quark Expeditions, along with scientists, researchers, and other travel enthusiasts. It was a smallish ship of less than 200, with a surprisingly high number of passengers in their 20s and 30s, looking for an adventure and wanting to step foot on their seventh continent.

But what if Antarctica isn’t all that great, I wondered, as our ship set sail through the infamous Drake Passage. This was to be the biggest splurge of our Round-The-World trip and I was worried it would end up being a big waste of money. But as we made our first landing, and a little Gentoo penguin waddled towards me, Mr. Wonderful and I grinned at each other. This wasn’t just great. This was frickin’ awesome.

The wildlife on the trip was simply incredible. I loved that the animals were unafraid of us, as Petrels and various species of Albatross birds flew overhead, letting the wind carry them forward. Elephant seals drifted by as they slept on their personal icebergs. Orcas were spotted in the distance as immense humpback whales swam so close to the ship that I could count the bumps on its back.

But the highlight for me, of course, were the penguins. I had expected to spot one or two, but instead we saw entire colonies of these adorable birds and witnessed their various life stages as individual stories unfolded before us. Mating, nesting, battling for rocks, death.

On a whim, Mr. Wonderful and I joined a climbing group and learned how to use an ice axe to make our way along the ridge of a mountain. As we paused near the summit, breathless from exertion, we took in the surreal landscape that surrounded us. Miles of white ice stretched out before us in every direction. Icebergs rimmed with turquoise floated serenely below. The world seemed so peaceful, so quiet, except for the occasional avalanche from the mountain next to us. With our fellow passengers looking just a millimeter tall from our perch, I suddenly realized how very small we were in this remote place. And yet strangely, so complete.

What is the next destination you would love to travel to?

Last year, I wasn’t so lucky. In the middle of a trip to Copenhagen, my right foot started hurting badly. It turned out I fractured tiny bones in my foot pad, which sometimes never heals. My podiatrist explained it was simply one too many cobblestone roads in shoes with thin soles, and there was a price to pay. I now have chronic sesamoiditis, so wearing high heels and flats with thin soles can cause a lot of pain for me.

Now that I’m forced to err on the side of comfort over style, my choices are more limited. I spent the summer checking out shoes in stores like The Walking Company, Aerosoles and Clarks, in addition to selections offered at Nordstrom and Zappos. Some pairs, like the Adam Tucker brand I purchased from Nordstrom, felt heavenly when I first slipped them on and then gave me cramps after a few hours of wear. The problem is that we tend to fall for the “cloud-like” feeling of soft padding, but what your feet actually needs is firm padding with some flexibility. Thank goodness for Nordstrom’s satisfaction policy! When I explained my situation, they were more than happy to take them back.

After a few months of trial and error, I finally made some purchases based on the five criteria for purchasing travel shoes from my last post. Here they are!

Best Sandals for Travel

After a lot of online research, I came across the brand Vionic with Orthaheel Technology. Founded by a podiatrist, their shoes are definitely comfortable. I ended up selecting this pair of sandals from their line, which has taken me from walking around all day to going out at night. Do I miss wearing a pair of heels for dinner? Sure. But these are pain free, and according to Mr. Wonderful, a smiling face is always prettier than one that is wincing from pinched feet. My only quibble with the sandals is that it could have been more slimly shaped in the front. My feet are on the wider side of “normal” but there is still a 1/2″ of extra room around my toes. Otherwise I’m happy with the classic (even attractive) style.

Best Flip Flops for Travel

For nearly a decade, I always wore a pair of black Reefs. They were comfortable, they fit, and they were light. They went to every beach destination with me. But when I spied a girl wearing a pair of Havaianas one day, I appreciated how they were a dressier version of your traditional flip flops. I could see them paired with a maxi dress or a cute pair of shorts, and figured they would be more versatile than the standard thongs.

Just for comparison’s sake, I ordered other brands of flip flops too. Besides trying on five different Havaianas styles, I also tested Ipanema (love this pair!) and Vionic (because I love my sandals). But Ipanema flip flops weren’t as comfortable on my feet, and Vionic’s versions were rather chunky. I didn’t plan on walking in flip flops all day; I just needed something packable and wearable from the beach to maybe dinner. The Havaianas Luna was the overall winner in terms of comfort and style.

Best Walking Shoes for Travel

The answer might surprise you, because I never thought I’d be the (very) happy owner of…

Crocs.

Yeah, I know. Those round, plastic, dwarf-like shoes? Even when Crocs first tried to be stylish, I was put off by their round and plastic look. They might be easy to clean, but I couldn’t see myself wearing them except for gardening. But when one of my friends told me she was a committed convert after walking in a pair of Crocs for over 8 hours in China, I knew I had to give them a try. “They come in canvas now, too,” she informed me. After reading various reviews, I ordered the Crocs Walu loafer in leopard print.

I wasn’t in love with the design, but it wasn’t bad. And…they were comfortable. Really comfortable. To be sure, I ordered sneakers from other brands, everywhere from the collapsible Nike to Merrells and Pumas. Some cramped my feet, some were plain uncomfortable, and others were just too heavy or big. Now that I’ve spent entire days walking in these Crocs, I have to admit my friend was right. And they are ridiculously light. And they smush easy for travel. And they have good grip in the rain. And did I tell you they are truly the best walking shoes for travel?

So what about those slip on sneakers?

If you paid attention to the photo in my last post, there were four pairs of shoes I bought for travel, including a pair of Joie sneakers. I’ll admit it. They were a splurge, and according to Mr. Wonderful, totally unnecessary. But I love the street sneakers that are trending right now, and out of the ones I tried on, these were the lightest and most comfortable (not as light or as comfortable as my Crocs, of course!). Joie is known for their stylish yet comfortable clothes, so these shoes are in line with what they do best. These require a breaking-in period, though (I got two blisters on the first day).

Any other tips?

I like adding these slim Vionic inserts to my sneakers and walking shoes for added comfort!

What are the most comfortable shoes you own, and what shoes do you pack for travel? Are they the same? Let me know!